A Makeup & Beauty Blog – Lipglossiping

As I’ve gotten older, I’ve made friends with products that promise sheerer coverage.  As a younger makeup-addict, I definitely went all out on their fuller-finish, matte counterparts that obliterated every blemish with a single swipe, they were my makeup nirvana.  The sad fact of the matter is, that on younger skin, you can get away with it… but as you get older, you need to find products that rest more lightly against your skin.  Products that reflect the light and even out your complexion without sinking into pores, fine lines, and *whispers* wrinkles.

Clarins latest release promises to do just this.  The Clarins Instant Light Radiance Boosting Complexion Base is available in three shades: 01 Rose, 02 Champagne, 03 Peach… each of which promise a light texture and effortless glide over the skin.

Don’t think of this as a typical base product.  It’s not a foundation, neither is it a primer… I like to think of it more as a little touch of skin S.O.S which would come into its own on a morning after the night before.  It contains pigments that will help reflect light and luminosity back from the skin surface, giving the impression of a more well-rested complexion and also contains moisture-boosting Katafray to help balance the skin’s natural hydration levels.

My skin is unlikely to ever be good enough to wear this alone, but I would happily combine it with a light foundation base to further even out the redness and tone without overloading my pores with product.  The 30ml pump tube delivers the product efficiently and without wastage, always a plus point in my opinion.

My only caveat is shade selection.  As you can see, the shade (03 Peach) that I have is too dark and shade-impacting for my complexion.  As sheer as it is, it gives me an overall warmth that isn’t flattering.  You may still need a little assistance from a Clarins expert on counter who will help ensure that you walk away with the shade that benefits your skin-tone the most.

As far as the texture goes, the base shows a lot of promise.  You can apply allover the face or simply buff it into the areas that need some extra radiance, I’ve also tried mixing it into my foundation and the formula takes to this well without balling up on the skin or grumbling about such an injustice!

I’m going to leave you with a link to ReallyRee’s before/after photos that demonstrate better than I am able, how the product actually looks when worn on the face.

Clarins Instant Light Radiance Boosting Complexion Base is priced at £26.00 and is available on counter and online now.

* press sample

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I’m engaged in a bit of a tempestuous relationship with Clinique’s new CC Cream*.  A turbulent love affair that swings from “YOU DO NOTHING FOR ME!”, to “HOW DID I EVER LIVE WITHOUT YOU?”  Unforunately for you dear reader, this may make for a somewhat confused review that I’m hoping will unravel itself by the end of the post, leaving me standing firmly on one side (or the other) of the fence.

First up, CC Creams… why would you need one?

Marketed as the industry’s answer to colour-correction, you should be interested in them if you suffer from a range of tonal issues.  Nose like a lush?  Hyperpigmentation like an ageing banana?  The CC Cream, in theory, should help to brighten, reduce dark spots, take out redness, reduce sallowness and act as your one-stop solution to anything that removes you from the “normal” range for skintones.  Of course, that’s not actually going to happen, not in the biblical sense at least… we’ve been around the block long enough to reduce our expectations somewhat when it comes to these kind of claims.

But still, it’s an interesting theory… particularly when you’re not expected to use these CC Creams as a stand-alone base product.  The CC Cream should be considered a primer, something that will prep your skintone in advance of your usual base product.  Except, that’s not actually the case here.  Bucking the trend, Clinique have released a CC Cream that contains enough pigment to actually act as your base product… oh, ok then.

Forming part of their established Moisture Surge range, the Clinique CC Cream promises to deliver oil-free hydration, colour-correction, and sun protection.  It comes in a total of six shades ranging from Very Light to Deep and contains a summer-appropriate broad spectrum SPF30.  For your money, you get a fairly generous 40ml of product… though priced at £28, it sits at the higher end of Clinique’s pricing for their base products – has anyone else noticed their recent price jumps?

Application is a little tedious and best achieved (in my opinion) with clean fingers, a little at a time, working the product into the areas of the skin that need “correcting” before blending toward the edges of the face.  The thick texture requires you pay attention to ensure that your blending skills are up to par, I’m assuming that this is a side-effect of a higher SPF protection.  That being said, it’s a product that will happily accept a few layers over the areas that require a little more help.

The shade Very Light is well-suited to my skintone despite it looking somewhat peachy when initially dispensed from the tube.  I would say that instead of brightening my complexion, it actually dulls it a little.  It’s not a disaster, because I’m handy with a bit of highlighter… but still, it seems to take away radiance rather than inject it.

So how does its colour-correcting capabilities perform?  Well, it certainly does “something” but I’m not convinced that it achieves it in a different way to any other light-coverage base product on the market.  In other words, I wouldn’t bat an eyelid if Clinique had called it something other than a CC Cream.  You know, maybe something breakthrough like “tinted moisturiser”… but as much as this irritates me, I can’t dismiss the product because it does fit in perfectly with my preferred summer makeup routine.

Even though it delivers too much blanket coverage for me to value it as anything other than yet-another-tinted-moisturiser-masquerading-as-something-new, my dehydrated skin bloody loves it.

Once applied, the gluey texture diminishes and leaves behind a velvety finish that feels comfortable on the skin without encouraging too much shine across my t-zone.  The level of sun protection means that I don’t feel too guilty about forgetting to apply a separate SPF underneath, particularly when I’m finishing off my base routine with a dusting of (SPF-rated) mineral foundation to achieve a more complete level of coverage.

So, there you go.  I feel like I’m fence-sitting a little, despite my best intentions not to.  Incase you’re under any misconception, I’m calling bullshit on the CC Cream status because I’m not seeing anything that I wouldn’t get from a standard (good) tinted moisturiser.  The areas of my face that aren’t affected by diffused redness are displaying the same colour-correction as my red bits… it just doesn’t feel like they’re being cleverly targeted in a specific manner.

That being said, I like the product.  Go and get a sample from your nearest counter and try it on your face before deciding if it’s the kind of product that would fit in with your daily routine.  Certainly don’t judge it on a back-of-the-hand swatch like I did when it was first released, once applied to the face it’s a completely different animal and very kind to those of us with complicated moisture-concerns.

Clinique’s Moisture Surge CC Cream is priced at £28 for 40ml and available on counter and online from clinique.co.uk and johnlewis.com

* press sample

I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve brought home a new foundation, only for the cold light of day to reveal a complete shade mismatch.  If you’re contemplating your next foundation purchase, you may also want to contemplate giving Findation a try.  Findation is a new website (still currently in the beta stage), whose aim is to match you with your perfect shade across the entire range of foundations on the market.

Ambitious?  Of course, but makeup lovers everywhere know the worth of something that offers such a useful resource, Temptalia’s incredible Foundation Matrix has been helping women across the internet find suitable base-matches for a while now.

In order to grow an accurate and responsive database, the Findation website needs your help.  Simply log on and enter all the foundation matches that you know (don’t guess!) are a good match for your skintone, this will help develop the algorithm that will be used to (hopefully) eventually be able to give the user an accurate match across ALL foundations just by them entering in their current foundation shade.  Clever huh?

You can follow Findation on Twitter (@findation) and Facebook to receive updates about when the website concludes its beta testing stage – in the meantime, spread the word!

Do you struggle to find a match for your skintone?

Firstly, I’d like to say a big hoorah for a “western” BB Cream with a decent SPF rating.  The Estee Lauder Daywear BB Creme* comes with a broad-spectrum sun protection rating of SPF35.  What it doesn’t come with, is a whole bunch of moisture – and that’s bad news for me, especially because it’s kind of the whole reason I fell in love with BB creams in the first place.  But let’s not forget, this version from Estee Lauder has disassociated itself with the whole BB cream ‘thing’ by re-imagining those two initials, not to mean blemish/beblesh balm, but ‘beauty benefit’.  If that sounds a little bit wanky, it’s because it is.

Having said that… every cloud has a silver lining does it not?

What the Estee Lauder Daywear BB Creme does introduce, is very good oil control.  It doesn’t achieve this by mattifying the crap out of your complexion, you’ll still see a certain amount of dewiness (a.k.a life) and definitely a lot of ‘real’ skin, but it manages to velvet-ify (that’s SO a word), keeping the greasies (also a word) at bay very effectively indeed.

Coverage is sheer/medium but it evens my skintone without arguments and reduces the redness admirably.  If you’ve got blemishes, you’ll need to conceal these – don’t be layering four coats of BB cream ontop and hoping for the best.

Many have raised concerns about the shade and yes, two shades is not enough and 01 Light (the palest) is both too dark and too warm-toned for pale, cool pink types like myself.  If you’re an NC20 upward, you should be fine with this shade.  I’m not one to be massively horrified if a foundation doesn’t match my skintone exactly, I just don’t want to look tangoed or for people to take sly twitpics of me to show their friends how ‘not’ to get matched for foundation.  You know?  Hopefully the pictures will give a better impression of what I’m trying to say but I think I can get away with this one aslong as I don’t get too fixated on it not quite being right.

What else is there to mention?  Packaging is sleek and portable, if not the sexiest I’ve seen.  It smells strongly of cucumber, reminding me of the Boots own range of cucumber products… again, this doesn’t really scream “I’m worth my £32 price tag”.

Ok, before/after time – this is taken under flash conditions, at night so the change in tone is pretty much spot on (as I have complete control over the lighting here).  Also, I’m loving the chin spot.

The bottom line is this, if you have very dry skin, there are more suitable products available in the BB cream world for you.  If you have combination or oily skin and you’re a little darker than the average sun-dodger, you should really try and beg a sample of this from your nearest counter because I think it may be the best BB cream you’ve yet to try.

Estee Lauder Daywear BB Creme is available to buy now online and on counter, priced at £32 for 30ml

* press sample

Luxury skincare brand Lubatti have released their latest skincare product in the form of Anti-age Wonderlip which has been specifically designed to help increase lip volume whilst reducing fine lines and wrinkles.  I was sent a tube a few weeks ago and have been putting it through its paces thanks to the recent cold snap.

The tiny 10ml tube is filled with a deliciously-light, gently scented balm that promises to nourish lips whilst providing a plumped up pout with less of those pesky fine lines and lip wrinkles.  First things first, it works… really, really well but not in the stinging, lip-irritating way that lip volumisers usually plump.  This is a silicone-heavy lip primer that fills the furrows and smoothes the lip texture, creating the illusion of a prettier pout.  That’s not to say that there are no long-term skincare benefits to help promote lip volume, but first and foremost – think of this as a non-drying lip primer.

And the term non-drying is key here, as most lip primers I’ve tried in the past leave my lips looking good but feeling tight.  The Lubatti Anti-age Wonderlip* manages to prime without any unwanted side-effects.  Except for one.  A great, big dent in your wallet.  Priced at £29, it’s a costly addition to your skincare routine but seeing as it offers a tangible difference – I have visions of this becoming a bit of a cult product among those who can afford such luxuries.

If you suffer from dry lips, I think you’ll probably still need the support of something a little more heavy duty on the moisturisation front and paired with a nightly application of Lanolips 101, this has become a bit of a dream team lip-combo.  Not one that I can afford to sustain… but it’s very, very lovely while it lasts.

Ingredients: Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Isododecane, Cera Alba, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethiconol, Aluminium Starch Octenylsuccinate, C 18-21 Alkane, Vp/hexadecene Copolymer, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Tribehenin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Aroma, Sorbitan Isostearate, Butylene Glycol, Tocopheryl Nicotinate, Phenoxyethanol, Hexylene Glycol.

Lubatti Anti-age Wonderlip is priced at £29 and available online from lubatti.co.uk

* press sample

If you’ve ever wanted to explore the world of Asian base makeup, now would be a rather magnificent time to indulge.

This limited edition Kate Spade for RMK Base Make-Up Kit includes everything you need for picture perfect skin this season with travel-sized offerings of RMK’s Cleansing Milk, Creamy Soap, Skintuner Soother, Creamy Polished Base and (practically legendary) Creamy Foundation.

All contents are housed in this extremely covetable silver vanity case bearing the Kate Spade logo and attention to detail.

Available from RMK counters nationwide, priced at £55.00

* press sample

On Monday night, I was invited to attend a rare UK appearance from Dr. Howard Murad who was visiting the UK with his son Jeff to introduce a few new products to the brand’s lineup.  Included in the launch are a new range of primers, marketed as “Hybrids” that draw maximum inspiration from the well-established skincare line.

The 4-piece range includes:

Hybrids Skin Perfecting Primer Matte Finish (£27)
Hybrids Skin Perfecting Primer Dewy Finish (£27)
Hybrids Eye Lift Illuminator (£25)
Hybrids Eye Lift Perfector (£25)

The two Skin Perfecting Primers in the range project obvious differences in overall finish (one matte, one glowy) but both claim to offer universal shade-matching from an oil-free formula.  They promise to disguise flaws, even skin texture and minimise the appearance of pores whilst balancing oil production.  Sadly, there’s nothing specific in the release about promoting longevity of makeup but that may well come under the ‘balancing oil production’ umbrella.

The other two products are intended for the eye area.  The Eye Lift Illuminator promises to instantly brighten the eyes thanks to a colour corrective formula (violet-toned), whilst hydrating, de-puffing, and minimising dark circles to give the surrounding delicate skin a more youthful appearance.

The final product is the Eye Lift Perfector which promises the same improvements to general skin health as the Illuminator but with the addition of a natural tint (concealer) to even skin tone further.

I won’t deny it, I’m very excited to try the skin primers – and for one reason in particular.  The brand have placed emphasis on something that sounds remarkably worthy of an eye-roll but has me wetting myself in anticipation regardless…

Pore Factor-5.

Murad describes Pore Factor-5 as a proprietary technology that will…

~ Improve skin grain by tightening dilated pores
~ Blends with skin’s natural pigments to add luminosity to the skin while msoothing out fine lines and wrinkles
~ Normalizes oil production and helps control bacterial proliferation
~ Soothes and reduces inflammation
~ Protects against the damaging effects of UV-induced free radicals to preserve and improve skin elasticity, firmness and tone.

Honestly, I’m too fixated on that first one to bother caring about the rest.  Note how it doesn’t say ‘improves the appearance of pores’.  Yeahhhh Murad, you’ve just given me a BENCHMARK.  I like benchmarks.

I’ll be putting the primers to the test over the next few weeks and will be looking for all these lovely, instant results that I wanna see.  As a fairly pore-y kinda chick, I’ve got my fingers crossed.

Murad’s new Hybrids range is available to buy online from Murad, Feel Unique, Urban Retreat Beautique and from leading salons and spas nationwide.

You say tomato, I say tomato (that works so much better in person).  They say Line Diffuser: Wrinkle Smoothing Capsules*, I say Primer (mine’s snappier).

Firstly, the capsules instill that “squee cuteness!” thing in me that I need to resolve before I buy up half the Disney store on my next visit.  Secondly, this thing is packed full of ‘cones… it has more ‘cones in it than an Ice Cream van parked outside IBM.

When I saw this I was all “hmmm, this ain’t skincare!”, “but it sounds like skincare?”… “nahhh, this ain’t ‘skincare'”.

Apparently, it IS skincare.  Here’s the ingredients, I’ll let you make your own mind up.

I like the sound of the peptides… so I’m gonna call it a primer with ‘skincare benefits’.  That’s a compromise to you and me.

I apply it under makeup as recommended and the silicone helps me achieve baby-soft, velvety skin in an instant.  Infact I’ve been a bit sarky about this product so far but I can’t deny that it’s actually one of the best ‘primers’ I’ve used.

My foundation glides on once the Line Diffuser has had a minute to dry down.  You know those rare, blissful times when you get a great foundation application that looks flawless?  Since using these prior to buffing in my liquid foundation, all applications have looked flawless.  It simply makes my skin look smoother and more even-textured.   I don’t have anything other than a few fine lines around my eyes to test claims on wrinkle-smoothing but I’m liking its pore polyfilling abilities a lot.

I don’t believe I’ve achieved any additional longevity from my foundation since using this but I am finding this noticeably more suited to my skin than my Smashbox primer or my MAC Prep + Prime.

I’m torn.  I think the marketing as to what it actually is, is a bit squiffy… it’s potentially a little drying with daily use (best reserved for days when you NEED great skin?) and it’s pricey at £29.95 for 60 capsules which works out at an overall volume of around 21ml.

But I’m loving its work.  Something I never thought I’d say about a brand brought to life by Cindy Crawford.  I know that’s snobby… that’s snobby right?  Still… she does rock the 90s brown lip like no other!

Meaningful Beauty’s Line Diffuser Wrinkle Smoothing Capsules are priced at £29.95 and can be purchased online at www.meaningfulbeauty.co.uk (a Guthy Renker site).

* press sample

I promised you a post on BB creams and in all honesty, what I know about BB creams can probably be written on the back of one.  In other words, not an awful lot.

However, one thing I do know is that they’ve been around for a lot longer than you might think.  Currently hot topic across the UK blogosphere, we’re about 3 years out of date on this one.  Here’s the post that introduced me to them back in 2008: The lovely Muse talks about BB Creams…

Since then, I’ve been gathering snippets here and there from other Asian cosmetics aficiandos like Rowena, Kathi and ParisB (just a small selection of amazing blogs with an Asian beauty focus) and dipping my toe in the proverbial waters.

The biggest complaint lodged against the Asian BB Cream market is the lack of colour variation and this still holds true 3 years down the line… for medium toned or paler skins, it’s not too bad.  Darker skintones (with the exception of one or two products) are pretty much ignored in this genre.

Speaking from a personal point of view, my pale pink skin isn’t as bothered by the oft-disliked ‘beige/grey’ tones found within many of these creams.  Infact, I find that they cancel out my redness better than any other foundation or concealer I’ve tried but I can absolutely appreciate why they don’t look as good on olive or yellow-toned skintones.

The below image shows them swatched on my inner wrist where the skin is considerably more milk-bottle than my face.  The texture of the three varies considerably.  I’m going to do a speed review on each…

Therapia ECO Feel BB Cream

This one has the heaviest texture, it’s quite hard to spread and drags a little unless my skin is well moisturised underneath.  The colour is good, though a tiny bit too dark for me.  Skin-loving properties are based around whitening and calming irritated skin with Apricot Oil and Aloe Vera Gel.

Coverage is medium, it conceals redness nicely but blemishes will need extra work.  I don’t find that this builds very well, more than one layer and it starts to look caked on.  It’s unscented and has an SPF rating of SPF25 PA++

I would recommend this for normal/combo skins.

Skin Food Gingko Green BB Cream

The lightest in texture of the three I currently have in rotation.  Best for drier skins, this leaves behind a medium coverage and a dewy finish. If you’re oily, you will probably hate this with a passion.

It’s delicately scented and promises to be filled with ‘beauty enhancing’ ingredients like lecithin and Vit B to moisturise and nourish.  Sadly, this one contains no SPF.

The colour is less ‘beige’ (read grey) than the other two and will be better suited to warmer skintones (though it is still very light).

Shills Super Magic BB Cream

My favourite and the one I’ve been reaching for recently is this offering from Taiwanese brand, Shills.  With the highest SPF rating of SPF50 PA+++, it’s been doing a good job of keeping my skin protected in the sun.  It promises to aid with whitening, wrinkles(!) and general skin improvement.

It’s the palest of the three and the most suited to a cooler, pink skin tone.  It covers my redness phenomenally well and is mid-way between the other two in terms of spreadability.  Again, this one is delicately scented which may put you off.  It glides on over a moisturised face but if you’re combo-skinned, you may not want to add that extra dewiness as this is pretty moisturising on its own.

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As you can see, these ones all come from the Asian marketplace but I’ll be interested to see how the bigger brands currently throwing themselves on the bandwagon will interpret the ‘genre’ for the Western market.  I buy all my BB Creams on eBay but please be aware that there are fakes.  Infact, I’m not certain that all my purchases are genuine (though I’ve thankfully had no adverse reactions) so do all your usual eBay homework, check ratings… compare products to stock images etc and if in doubt, ask questions!

Have you tried BB Creams?  Want to?

Mineral makeup tends to attract followers of great dedication.  Some people are almost evangelical in their adoration for their swirl, tap, buff methods that they leave my head spinning.  I do count myself as a fan of most mineral foundations, I find them quick and easy whilst leaving behind pretty good skin!

My biggest issue with them would be lasting power (or lack of!)… especially in the Summer and particularly on my nose!

Enter Bare Minerals‘ new Prime Time Brightening Foundation Primer*.  They already have a ‘normal’ primer on the market, this is the new one that promises to deliver an “extraordinarily luminous, healthy-looking glow” to our skins.

It’s a very peachy-looking primer… I was expecting to see the usual, white or cloudy viscose liquid dispense from the pump.  Instead, it’s creamy, sparkly and a little on the orange side!  Eek!

So how does it fare?

Well, the colour blends away into my skintone and doesn’t leave a trace behind… it has a slight silicone slip though not as much as primers like the Smashbox one.

When I buff the foundation into my skin, I can definitely feel a difference in the application… it’s smoother and seems to give a little more glide to the buffing action.  I’d even go so far as to say that I get a better finish than without the primer.

But longevity?  Nuh Uh… I’m not noticing a discernible difference.  Not only that… but the “luminous, healthy-looking glow”?  Well… that’s just a bit of sparkle.  All over mah face.

Look.

See the gold flecks?  They sure are pretty!  But they make me wanna break into Saturday Night Fever.  They’re discoball… albeit subtle discoball once spread out over the face.

In any luminizer, I prefer subtle sheen over glittery particles.  It’s not that the effect isn’t pretty… it is.  It’s just too much for daywear, for me at least.

Little primer. we can’t stay together, I’m sorry.  It’s not you… it’s me.

Bare Minerals Prime Time Brightening Primer is available from this month at Bare Escentuals Boutiques, department stores and selected spas/salons nationwide priced at £19.00.

*Press Sample

I received a few bits and pieces from Screenface before Christmas and have been putting them to the test.

I love the idea of using ‘professional’ makeup in my day to day life.  It’s no secret that us consumers pay through the nose for pretty packaging and the immense marketing budgets of the high street brands.  So I’m always curious about whether going for professional products really will give more bang for our buck!

Let’s start with the Screenface Shadow Magnet Eye Primers…

The Screenface Shadow Magnet Eye Primers (£8.95) come in two shades, light (left) and natural (right).  They’re both hard-textured with less slip than the likes of UDPP.  The shades can be mixed to create a good neutralizing base (should your eyelids need it) and they promise to deliver true colour and long lasting eyeshadow results.

I’d agree on the true colour… but long-lasting?  Not as much as the other eye primers in my collection.  I did a side-by-side comparison with UDPP and the Shadow Magnets were beaten by a good few hours.  I was surprised that these didn’t deliver in the way I’d anticipated from a pro-brand.

Moving swiftly on…

Screenface Cremewear Blush (£9.95) – Small, but perfectly formed.  These 2.8g cream blushes glide on effortlessly with a good deal of slip, making blending a dream.  The shades are sheer and glowy with a hint of sparkle (just a hint mind)… I couldn’t be more sold on these and am finding it very hard to pick fault with them.

L-R: Crush, Afterglow

They last and last without sliding down my cheeks or transferring… the colour payoff is great, yet they remain buildable for the heavy-handed among us.  They remind me a little of the new Urban Decay cream blushes (due out soon)… but I prefer these.

Just buy one.  Or three.

Lastly, Screenface Creme Shadow (£12.95) – Available in 6 shades, above is Moss… which looks more like an Antique Gold to me, strange considering they do a shade called Antique Gold!  However, 7g gives you a hefty amount of product for your money.  Deeply pigmented and spreads like a dream.  Longevity isn’t that amazing on this if worn on it’s own but it does make a lovely base for intensifying powder shadows.

I usually apply this with my finger for a sheer wash of colour and achieve around 5 hours wear before it disappears upward into the crease of my eye socket.  It blends beautifully without setting too quickly and is a quick-fix for time-pressed mornings!

If you find yourself in Covent Garden, I recommend taking a look around the Screenface Store on Monmouth Street.  It’s a charming shop and I defy you to walk out empty-handed!

Paese Cosmetics is a Polish cosmetics brand new to the UK market.  Currently only available online from http://paesecosmetics.com, the brand encompasses a wide selection of products from primers through to nail polishes and most things inbetween.

Paese Cosmetics’ price point aligns it with the drugstore market, infact… slightly cheaper.  A foundation will set you back just under £10.

I was sent some samples to put to the test, read on for images and my thoughts on the base products I received.

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